The Complete A to Z of Budgerigars
Compiled by Terry Tuxford
To call this the Complete A to Z of Budgerigars is really an overstatement and almost impossible to achieve. If you find something missing from this listing or have further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us – https://www.budgerigarclub.com/contact-us/
PLEASE CLICK ON THE BLUE WORDS BELOW EACH LETTER TO ACCESS THE NEXT LEVEL
There are a great number of toys available for you and your budgie to enjoy.
However, not too many. Your bird still needs room to perch and move around his cage.
This section of the A to Z is included to provide information about some of the heath issues that could face our budgerigars. In no way is it a substitute for seeking professional veterinary advice.
It is important to keep an eye on your budgie’s health and check them every day for signs of illness. It is equally important for all your pets to be registered with a vet – including your budgie. On the Budgerigar Club website there is a list of Specialist Avian Vets.
The design and size of the space used to house budgerigars externally to your home can vary enormously from a simple flight in the garden to house a few ornamental birds to quite extensive brick-built structures that will house hundreds of budgerigars. Considerations you will need to make include the intentions for your birds, how much room you have available and what you can comfortably afford.
The pleasure that can be had from breeding your own budgerigars are enormous. Whether you are breeding pet birds in a colony or have decided to cage breed, the sight of that first chick each year is just wonderful. And as they grow, and you get to see the feathers open to reveal the youngsters colours in can be a wonderment. If you have the time and resources breeding budgerigars is to be highly recommended. It should be noted that single pairs of budgerigars seldom breed as they are flock birds and need the stimulation of other birds around them.
Whether we are colony breeding or cage breeding our budgerigars, there can be many challenges to face. Seldom will a breeding season pass without a hitch. Here are some of the more common issues.
Buying our first budgerigar is an exciting time. They are such wonderful birds that soon become a member of the family. For those who are breeding budgerigars, buying new members for your flock is always great fun, especially if you are trying a new colour or variety.
It is important to keep our budgies in a clean cage or flight. Not always a pleasurable job but our commitment as birdkeepers is to do the best we can for our birds.
Sharing our hobbies with fellow enthusiast. The bird keeping fraternity is known as a “fancy” and so bird keepers are called “fanciers”. There are clubs and organisations all over the world that celebrate budgerigar ownership through meeting up and sharing experiences.
Budgerigars come in a myriad of colours and varieties and from time to time, new varieties emerge and become established.
Currently they include:
|Dark Eyed Clear||Dilute||Dominant Pied||Fallow|
|Opaline Cinnamon||Rainbow||Recessive Pied||Saddleback|
See https://www.budgerigarsociety.com/judges-judging/ for descriptions of colours and varieties. (Colour Standards 2012)
See Genetics and Genetics and Colour Breeding for Budgerigars
Like many animals and birds there is a potential exhibition element for our budgerigars. While this is not for everyone an awareness of what goes on at shows is always useful. Also, many exhibition budgerigar breeders will sell some of their birds as pets and unlike other pedigree animals such as cats and dogs, prices will be very reasonable.
This topic is of more interest to budgerigar breeders although all knowledge is good.
What makes up the visual appear of a budgerigar? What are the different parts called – some are obvious, others not so.
Budgerigars are essentially seed eaters and so a good quality seed mix is recommended. You can buy suitable seed for your pet from the Budgerigar Club or local pet shop. Extras for your bird to eat should include millet spray, apple, corn on the cob and carrot – the rule is little and often. They should also be provided with mineralised grit, cuttlefish bone and an iodine block.
Never feed your budgie avocado, the pits and seeds of fruit (apple seeds contain cyanide and are especially toxic), chocolate, garlic, onion, mushrooms, uncooked beans, rhubarb, and the leaves and stems of tomatoes. These are all toxic to the bird. While lettuce and celery are enjoyed, they are mainly water and provide little nutritional value. A good tip is to remove any leftover treats before bedtime and in particular greens such as lettuce as if left for a day or two and eaten can cause your bird diarrhea.
Ensure that fresh clean drinking water is always available. The bird will know how much to drink. Change the water daily to prevent bacteria build-up.
This is a branch of biology that deals with the heredity and variation of organisms. It is about the way traits are handed down from parents to offspring over time.
Originally from Australia, there has been no exports of these birds from Australia for decades and so they have been captive bred all over the world.
Budgerigars, or budgies for short, are wonderful birds that make great companions for people of all ages. They are probably the most popular pet after dogs and cats. As a pet they cost very little to keep, thrive in a home environment and will even mimic your words over time giving the impression that they really can talk. If you are contemplating buying your first budgie, you will want to ensure that it gets off to a great start and stays healthy and happy. They have an average lifespan of 6 or 7 years but can live much longer.
To keep track of age and parentage, many breeders will put rings onto the legs of their baby birds when they are between 7 and 10 days old.